Monday, June 19
Monday morning, after a little last-minute shopping, we took an UberXL from Disneyland Paris to Charles de Gaulle airport to pick up our rental car (time: ~30 minutes; cost: €90.00). Renting cars in Europe is different than renting cars in the USA – mostly they offer less variety, smaller vehicles, and different makes and models. It was also a much slower process than what we are used to at home, even though we had booked the car well in advance.
Because we needed room for four people, luggage, and food, and we were traveling to areas with narrow roads and limited parking, we opted for a mid-size SUV, which ended up being the Peugeot 3008. It’s similar in size to the Toyota RAV4 or Honda CRV. Overall, we were happy with this car; it was comfortable, handled well, and (most importantly) had plenty of trunk space!
Our end destination for the day was the Airbnb in Commes, a town near the beaches of Normandy. Without stops the drive would take about four hours, but what’s the point of road tripping if you don’t stop? After a week of relying on our feet and public transportation, it felt good to be on the road again.
About halfway to Commes, we stopped in Rouen for lunch and visited the site where Joan of Arc was martyred. We also visited Rouen’s Cathedral de Notre Dame.
First, for anyone traveling around France by car, be warned: We had trouble using credit cards at some parking meters. Even though we only used credit cards that are accepted internationally, there were still many times when automated machines, such as parking meters and gas pumps (stories to come!) refused to accept our cards. We think the problems is related to differences between US and French credit cards. Specifically, credit card machines in France often prompted us to enter a PIN like we do for debit cards in the US; of course, the problem is that US credit cards don’t have PIN numbers so there was nothing we could do. Thankfully, in Rouen, a kind local paid for us and we gave her cash to cover the cost.
Lunch at Brasserie Paul in Rouen
Using the Find me Gluten Free app, the girls found us a place for lunch, Brasserie Paul, which is located right on the square facing the Cathedral. It was a beautiful day so we sat outside under their big red umbrellas. They did not have a gluten-free menu but many items were already gluten-free or could be modified; and they did have gluten-free bread!
The service was a mixed-bag. Our server – an older woman – was not particularly friendly, patient, nor helpful. She seemed annoyed by both our bad French as well as our food allergies. However, the host – an older man who appeared to be the manager and/or owner – was kind and helpful. He actually told us, “If you need anything, don’t ask them (gesturing to his wait staff). Ask me!” While this might appear rude, it’s entirely possible that he was trying to spare his staff the hassle of dealing with us. His attentiveness made up for whatever was lacking in our server, and in the end, we all enjoyed our meals.
Fair warning, the birds in Rouen are so comfortable around people that they will pull up a chair and join you at your table. And by that I mean, they will jump in your bread basket if you’re not careful. It felt a lot like being swarmed by sea gulls in New England, the upside being that these birds are quite a bit smaller.
Cathedral Notre Dame de Rouen
After lunch we toured the Cathedral Notre Dame de Rouen, which was completed in 1250 AD. The cathedral appears in David McCullough’s book, The Greater Journey, which tells the stories of prominent Americans who visited Paris during the 1800’s. Most of them, after arriving in La Havre, traveled along the Seine to Paris, stopping in Rouen on the way. Having lived all their lives in the New World, most US travelers had never seen such old and elaborate architecture. Many of them were so awestruck by the church’s magnificence and beauty that they literally wrote home about it.
The Rouen Cathedral is, indeed, magnificent. We were particularly struck by her size, of course, but also by the details in the architecture, both inside and out. If we were in awe, I can only imagine how 19th century Americans felt while standing in its shadow. Because the looming church sits in a busy city square surrounded by streets and buildings, capturing a photo of the her is no simple feat!
While we were in the Cathedral, Doug suggested we light candles for Derek, my brother who passed away eight years ago on that very day. It was strange being so far from home on the day of his death, and lighting the candles helped me feel more connected to him and my family.
After the Cathedral, we visited the Joan of Arc Memorial Cross, where Joan, at just 19 years of age, was burned at the stake for heresy. We also drove by the tower where she was imprisoned before her execution.
As we stood beneath the towering cross, surrounded by a flower garden and overlooking a Catholic church dedicated to the now-sainted martyr, Christina said, “What’s interesting about Joan of Arc is that she was martyred by the church. And now she’s a saint.”
Wow. Wow. I immediately wondered, Who are the saints of today that we are labeling as heretics and “burning at the stake?” What does “burning someone at the stake” look like in modern times?
In fact, Christina’s words impressed themselves so deeply upon my heart, they inspired a poem!
Next to the memorial cross, there is also a modern church dedicated to Joan of Arc. The design and story behind it is interesting; you can read about it here if you want.
We didn’t linger long (miles to go before we sleep!) before we hit the road for the Cliffs of Étretat.
Cliffs of Étretat
Étretat was a little out of our way, but definitely worth the time! We read lots of warnings about the challenge of parking near the beach but we found a spot nearby with no trouble at all. It probably helped that it was late afternoon on a Monday when we arrived.
The little beach town, with its narrow streets carved between rustic building, felt similar to many New England beach towns…
but the view was quite different!
As was the beach itself. Like many beaches in France, it’s covered in stones instead of sand.
We were probably there no more than an hour, admiring the view, taking photos, walking the boardwalk, and visiting a gift shop or two. Afterward, on our drive to Commes, we drove over the Pont de Normandie, which crosses the Seine where it empties into the English Channel.
We got to our Airbnb a little after 8:00 p.m. We would have arrived sooner but it was quite an adventure trying to locate the unit. Then we had to play what felt like a cross between a scavenger hunt and an escape room puzzle to find the key and open the door!
Of all our Airbnbs in France, this was probably our least favorite, but that’s mostly because all the other places were uncommonly amazing. Here, the rooms were tight and the one shower stall was even tighter. But the smallest thing of all was the washing machine! Freaking Europe and their tiny washing machines… What about the dryer, you ask? Don’t be silly. Of course, there was no dryer!
The unit had a lovely little yard and patio. And just a few steps from the front door, there was an expansive view of meadows, hills, and even the town of Bayeaux in the distance.
When we first arrived, the hedges around walkway to our unit were so overgrown we could barely walk through them but then the next day, voila!
Dinner at Le Petit Jardin
For dinner, Jacquelyn found us another delightful restaurant called Le Petit Jardin (the little garden). We owe Jacquelyn many thanks for the great restaurants she finds us on all of our trips. We eat better when she’s with us!
How good was it? Well, Jacquelyn says it was the best meal of her life. Doug still talks about the burger we both had. (It was pretty great.) And one of the dishes – camembert baked with hard cider and caramelized apples – I’ve since made twice for the fam and no one can get enough!
Everything about Le Petit Jardin was superb: from the food to the the indoor/outdoor garden setting to the service.
We arrived near closing but they graciously seated us anyway. In true French fashion, they did not rush us at all. When we saw them starting to set tables for the next day, we offered to skip dessert but they said not to worry, there was another couple outside that they had seated after us. With genuine smiles, they encouraged us to relax and enjoy the meal. It was a little challenging given that we are New Englanders used to being in a hurry, and also because it was late and we’d had a very long day. But nonetheless, we rose to the challenge, relishing our experience in the enchanting atmosphere.
Because they cook to order with fresh, local ingredients, many of their dishes were naturally gluten-free and corn-free. They were also willing to modify dishes whenever possible. I honestly don’t remember what everyone ate, but their menu changes regularly based on local ingredients anyway. What I remember best is the burgers and the baked camembert, the apple sorbet served between appetizers and the main course, and the meringue with fresh strawberries. (Oh those French strawberries!!!!)
In the end, we didn’t finish our meal until almost 11:00 p.m. (and it still wasn’t dark out) but it was a perfect way to end the first day of the official start of our road trip around France.
Next Up: Our tour of the Beaches of Normandy
Lightning Bug 
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